Siamese Fighting Fish or is more commonly known as Betta fish.
How to care for a betta fish, Beta fish are a very popular freshwater tropical fish because of their vibrant, beautiful bright colors, and that they’re relatively easy to betta fish care for.
Remember that wild betta fish in a natural habitate usually live in small, even dirty puddles and pools so they’re a pretty hardy fish to start with.
- You should always keep male Bettas away from other betta fish. This is especially so when it comes to other males. Bettas are highly territorial and they’ll even fight to their death.
- If you intend to introduce a Betta fish into an existing tank of established community fish, try and avoid inhabiting them with fish like “fin nippers” or other tropical fish that may agitate or even feed on the slower moving Bettas.
- It’s a good idea every now and then to place a reflective mirror in front of your male Betta for a little entertaining exercise. But don’t leave the mirror in front of him for too long otherwise he will get exhausted and stress out!
- It’s also a good idea to keep your aquarium tank covered with a lid at all times. Bettas have a habit of jumping out of a jar or a round bowl. Even a piece of thin plastic sheet works great as a clear secure lid.
- Side point: If you have reason to search the Internet for Betta fish tips and advice on how to take care of your new pet Betta remember that you should type “betta fish care” and not “beta fish”. Because its a very common misspelling of the word Betta. By making sure that you add the extra “T” you’ll ensure that you get the right search results that you’re looking for.
- By looking after your beta fish will mean that you’ll get real enjoyment from your pet Betta for up to–two to three years! Let’s hope that you wind-up with a happy and healthy Betta pet who’ll provide you with much joy and pleasure! Always make sure you disinfect your plastic scoop or net and store thses items in a dry and safe place. Enjoy!
How To Care For A Betta Fish
Looking after your Betta fish requires some effort and time on your part. There are special considerations you should keep in mind. These condiderations are uniquely special to Siamese Fighting Fish.
This is especially so when it comes to the male Betta fish. Males need a bit more care so that they maintain a happy and healthy Betta pet.
Bringing Your Betta Fish Home
Items you will need: It’s probably best for you to have a bowl or betta fish tank already setup before you bring your pet Betta home from the pet store. To start with your betta fish will be alright in a small tank or bowl, but keep in mind that the larger the bowl is, the more contented and happy your pet Betta will be.
There’s a few different types of recommended setups for betta fish:
(1) a separate smaller bowl or tank is mainly ideal for say just one betta fish. Make sure you use at least 1/2 gallon or so. (2) a tall or round clear glass bowl or a even modern clear plastic fish bowl also works well. But again it must contain at the vety least about one and a half gallons of water. (3) an acquarium tank with a strong clear dividing sheet so that it holds a few of the males and/or females. And (4) a separate community bowl or betta fish tank for hold a single male or perhaps several females.
Once you’ve choosen the type of setup you prefer, you will require:
- Some Betta Fish food.
- An aquarium tank or clear glass/plastic bowl.
- Some aquarium type gravel.
- A few live natural plants or plastic plants.
- A plastic funnel, siphon, and a small net or scoop.
- A pH test kit for checking the water.
- A freshwater test kit. For example: Ammonia test kit.
- An aquarium tank thermometer.
- A packet of aquarium freshwater rock salt.
- A separate bucket especially for water preparation.
IMPORTANT: When your aquarium tank holds five gallons of water (or more) you’ll require an aquarium tank heater to maintain a correct tempature. You will also need a few bottles of “water conditioners”, and various medications to take care of you pet Betta in the unlikely event that he or she gets sick
Betta Fish Lifespan
How long do betta fish live ?The average lifespan of a betta fish is about… two to three years. But in some cases they’ll live up to almost five years. However, that is about the longest time a Betta will live to. What you need to keep in mind is that a betta fish in a pet shop is already at an adult age probably about six months to 1-year of age.
The life of betta fish is not as long as gold fish. In our article about how long do gold fish live is given in detail.
Positive Breeding Beackground
Keep in mind also that a positive breeding background along with a Betta in good health is best when you purchase it and will more than likely mean longer life for the Betta. After you’ve bought your Betta fish keep your pet Betta in good health and in a good environment including watching its diet, and necessay medications. A good Betta fish environment starts with a good sized living space.
Remember that the smaller type bowls really don’t count as a good environment. Plus, you MUST consider regular fresh water changes to guarantee your Betta fish has a good chance at a longer life expectancy.
Use Only Quality Food For Bettas
These rare and exquisite Betta beauties will thrive on a proper mixture of high quality pellets or other fish food designed specifically for bettas.
One good examplee is “Hikari Betta Gold”.
If your Betta pet doesn’t have any filtration system then Hikari Betta Bio Gold is probably the best. It’s a good idea to feed your Betta with a variety of frozen or freeze dried treats a couple two three times a week.
This will insure your Betta a happy, healthy and long life expectancy. Also, it’ll greatly enhance the brilliant coloration of your Bettas as well.
If you apply this information and use the absolute bare minimum of aquarium salts then you will not require information on Betta medications.
Keeping An Eye On Water Quality
This is because most Betta diseases that effect Bettas are genuinely related to poorer water quality.
Plus… treating Bettas with medication can induce much stress and anxiety on your pet Betta.
Acclimating Your Betta Fish
Your betta fish most likely will come from a water environment somewhat different to what you have waiting at home for it, so you see it is extremely crucial to gently ease him through the transition period without actually shocking him.
If you follow these steps below closely you will avoid any discomfort and harm coming to your betta fish on his initial introduction to his new home:
Keep your betta away from direct hot sunlight (as well as cold air ducts and vehicle vents) on your way back from the pet shop. Take him directly home without delay, and don’t leave him sit in your automobile for longer than its absolutely necessary.
You should float the bag or small container that your betta fish was put in the pet shop inside your aquarium and/or small fish bowl that you already have set up for him. This will allow him to acclimatize much quicker and allow the water temperature change gradually. You should allow it to float for several minutes before you release your betta fish.
Carefullly slice open the shop bag and add a small amount of aquarium water to the bag.
You should still keep the bag floating for awhile in the aquarium say for about twenty minutes or so. A good idea is to use a clip or household clothespin to secure the bag to one side in order to prevent it from sinking.
You should keep adding a little more of aquarium water to the bag so that your betta acclimatizes without shock.
Try and repeat this step enough times till the bag is filled with aquarium water. This method depends on the differences in the actual pH level between your aquarium water and the water used by the pet shop. This is a step that should be taken slow and take you several minutes to perform.
After you complete this step you can release your fully acclimatized betta pet into his new environment.
Aquarium Tank Filters
Aquarium filteration and heater systems are not required for aquarium tanks less than five gallons and in most instances should be left out altogether. This is especially the case when it comes to Betta fish.
Generally speaking, the gravel that you place in your tank in most cases provides more than adequate biological filtration and again when it comes to Betta fish this is the case. Everything should be alright for your Betta fish providing that you change its water regularly, and rid the tank of any excess food particles and other debris material as soon as possible.
Any tank or bowl size smaller than say a gallon, you will need to change all of the water once a day or at the very least three times per week. For much bigger tanks, you should do a portion of water about twenty five percent every week. Make sure that you completely siphon and/or vacuum the container gravel each time you decide to change the water.
As you probably know already Bettas breathe really well at the surface of the tank water, and the water requires no form of aeration either. In some cases, aerating (and, circulating) the water could easily produce too much water flow for your pet Betta. Bettas are not used to swimming against a hard current or flow of water.
If you do decide to purchase a water heater for your aquarium tank, you should also purchase a thermometer too. Why? Because it will allow you to monitor the water temperature more accurately. Keep in mind that extreme fluctuation of the water temperature can oftentimes kill or harm your Betta fish.
Symtoms of sick betta fish
So, you’ve got yourself a sick betta fish what now? Or perhaps you’re looking for advice on how to diagnose a sick betta fish. Or even a type of beta fish sickness maybe?
Firstly, we’re sorry to hear that you’re Siamese Fighting Fish is sick. But by just knowing a few simple rules you’ll be able to avoid having a sick or sickly looking Siamese Fighting Fish.
Just recall the old adage:
“An Ounce Of Prevention Is Worth A Pound Of Cure” Would you like to know the most common reasons for winding-up with a sick Siamese Fighting Fish? It’s almost always connected with poor water quality or bad water problems.
For example: Take fin rot. Bettas infected with fin rot really don’t look beautiful at all. No, not at all! And the insidious culprit of fin rot comes directly from bacteria that’s built-up due to… poor water quality.
It’s true! However, fin rot can easily be eradicated by simply making sure that you change the water on a regular basis.
If you regularly change the Bettas water (with fresh water) you’ll usually avoid having a sick pet Betta on your hands.
This is ALSO true when it comes to fin rot.
Another disease associated with water is “Ich” mainly due to ongoing fluctuation of the water tempature. Maintain an even water tempature and PRESSTO!!! You’ve avoided your Betta fish suffering from “Ich” Also, a fluctuating tempature can place your Betta pet under too much stress.
This inturn can be harmful to your Betta in the long term. Betta fish which are distressed are usually a lot more prone to acquiring dreaded parasites similar to ich. This is especially so if your tank or bowl water is… on the cooler side.
Do you have a Siamese Fighting Fish with a bladder disorder? In most cases, this can be… directly linked to overfeeding! And what about constipation? Again this can be attributed to over doing the prepared foods like fish pellets or fluffy flakes.
List Of Common Betta Fish Diseases
- Columnaris. A disease which effects Bettas. It’s also referred to as “Fungus Mouth” and “Cotton Mouth.”
- Dropsy. This is a very common and otentimes fatal disease of Bettas which causes your pet Betta to swell much larger that it’s normal size.
- Ich. Or sometimes spelt “Ick” is a terrible disease caused mainly from parasites. It is infectious to other Bettas but is quick and easy to treat successfully.
- Popeye. The dreaded bacterial disease which causes the Bettas eyes to bulge and look like they’re going to pop. If you don’t treat the Betta’s eye it can literally explode and your pet Betta fish will die very quickly.
- Swim Bladder Disorder. An insidious illness caused mainly from Betta’s overfeeding. It also will cause your pet Betta to swim strangely and with difficulty.
- Tail Rot. Commonly known as fin rot it literally causes Betta’s tails/fins begin to rot away.
So, in conclusion, watch out for these things… and the so-called “tell tale signs” and you’ll be able to enjoy a happy and healthy Siamese Fighting Fish.
FAQ’s for betta fish care
Question: What is the scientific name for a betta fish?
Answer: Betta splendens
Question: Where do betta splendens originate from?
Answer: Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and parts of Southeast Asia.
Question: How large can they grow?
Answer: Approximately two to three inches in length.
Question: How long can a betta fish live?
Answer: Approximately two to three years of age.
Question: What foods do they like?
Answer: They mainly like live foods. But they will live on flakes and even frozen foods.
Question: How do betta fish breed?
Answer: They lay eggs in what’s called a bubble nest.
Question: What is the best water pH for a betta fish?
Answer: 6.8 to as hih as 7.4
Question: What’s the most suitable water temperature?
Answer: About seventy-two to eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit
Question: How do tell a male from a female?
Answer: A males betta shows more color and has longer, flowing fins.
Question: How many betta fish per tank or bowl?
Answer: As a rule just one male per tank or bowl. But there’s really no actual limit on the number of females you can put in a tank as long as there is sufficient room. Usually about 4-6 females.
Question: Do betta fish require special apparatus?
Answer: As a rule a betta doesn’t need an air filter. However, a heater is sometimes a good idea as they enjoy luke warm water. And if there’s sufficient room in the tank or bowl, you can add small rocks, caves, and assorted plants for your betta pet to hide in if he gets frightened.
Question: What about special concerns?
Answer: Clean water nis an absolute must! Any excess food and betta poop left on the bottom should be removed from the tank or bowl. You can use a turkey baster to do this if you like. Remember, if you leave the debris it’ll quickly decay and pollute the quality of the water. Oftentimes this is a cause why the betta gets sick and winds-up with fin rot which betta fish are really susceptible to.
If you have any further questions you would like answers to simply drop us an email and we will promptly send you an answer. Thank you.